Sept 20: My friend Arun and I had just finished planting radishes, turnips and carrots on ten odd raised beds. Exhausted by work in the unusually hot autumn morning, we sat down for a late breakfast with the farm team of Ram Singh, Kuldeep and Sukhwinder. There was a shout at the gate and a wry Haryanvi Jat, sturdy peasant-warriors that straddle three religions and the India-Pakistan border, of our age walked in. Rati Ram owns 11 acres of land right next to our Model Farm at Village Pathreri. By any count he counts among the top 20% of Indian farmers in terms of landholding. Ram and the boys know him as he often comes looking for water to drink and to chat. I ask him what he sows.
Bajra (a course grain for marginal lands), wheat and mustard is the answer. The yields for the last two at around 1800 kilograms per acre and around 1000 kilos/acre respectively are about half the average in Punjab, India's green revolution champion. I ask him why he has'nt tried
dals (pulses) and black gram. He says he did but could not handle the pests. We talk about what FFF does and there is scepticism on his weary face.
The planting was fun; probably a first for Arun, a corporate lawyer. We use a mix of seeds from an Austrian organic seed company, from Navdanya (Vandana Shiva's farmers' seed exchange) and hybrid seeds from the wholesale Indra market in old Delhi. Next to the beds was our Azolla tank. We have been experimenting with this floating fern brought in a plastic bag full of water from the Indian Agriculture Research Institute in Delhi. It multiplied rapidly but since we do not do paddy in these parts we have to find other uses for its amazing ability to fix Nitrogen from the air. We tried giving it to the cattle; pooh they turned up their noses. The hens were only marginally more appreciative. Standing next to the velvety, carpet like tank gave us an idea. Why not use it as mulch? Like excited high school children in a lab, we decided to set up two control beds for comparison – regular plastic mulch and no mulch. In went the seeds and the vermicompost followed by the fern, which looked beautiful in the brown earth.
We helped the boys sort and weigh the week's produce. Our first vegetable this year is the humble Ghia (a gourd). I love the soft, subtle texture of its sabzi, especially if cooked in desi ghee (clarified butter). Its juice is precribed for lowering cholestrol. The next one is Okra. We try to make packets of a kilo and a half using an enourmous scale the boys use for weighing feed. I curse myself for leaving the kitchen scale behind and finally we decide to count the pieces and sell them by the packet and not by weight. We come to a consensus on what the retail price of Okra (Rs 35/kg) and Ghia (Rs 20/kg) is in Delhi and price the lot accordingly. Arun still had one more thing to do – bathe with water from the irrigation pump. My mind went back to a summer nearly thirty years back. We had gone to attend a wedding at a farm in a village in Punjab. It was unbearably hot and the water coming out with full force from the pump was irrestibly inviting. I and some boys of my age must have gone in and out about thirty times before my alarmed parents pulled me out. I still have not equalled this personal record of the number of showers taken in a day in the rural equivalent of a Jacuzzi.
Sept 26: It is a long weekend and we decide to drive down en famille to Chandigarh, 250 kms north of Delhi. This is the city of my youth; clean, planned and prosperous. The kids sleep through most of the ride till I park the car in front of the Northern region office of the Central Poultry Development Organisation in Chandigarh. An enourmous statue of an egg greets us so do, well, ostriches from down under. I am tempted to ask our host, Mr Surinder Singha, the hatchery incharge, how many farmers have bought into the ostrich business model but restraint rules. We talk about the courses they offer, the layer and broiler breeds they hatch and various aspects of the poultry business. One of Mr Singha's colleagues whispers out of the earshot of my wife and mother that the slimmer the female the better the prospects of its laying eggs. I tell Mr Singha of our experience with poultry and our interest in one of the hens they breed – Nirbheek or fearless. This is a cross between two breeds, one of them a fighting cock called Aseel. It can roam around the farm to forage for food and face down cats and dogs. One of our founder members – Dr S L Mehta – has seen excellent results with this breed both as broilers and layers in the tribal areas of Rajasthan where he works now after retiring as the Vice Chancellor of an agriculture university.
We book 100 chicks and five slots for the first poultry course in November. Mr Singha tells us that if we can encourage women farmers to attend, he will give 20 chicks per farmer free. Then he makes a proposal which causes some alarm in the family. Why don't you take some adult hens and chickens with you today? Water on the journey is the main problem but you can cut some cucumbers for them to bite into, he suggested. I promise to return after dropping the family off at my mother's place and en route we convince my mother to keep the hens in her backyard for a couple of days till our return to Delhi. My dear friends, we had no clue what we were getting ourselves into!
I returned to the hatchery with a fullly woken up nine year old girl and a four year old boy. We selected a cock and six hens and my son, who always runs to the chicks the moment we reach the farm, decided to lead the party, two hens firmly under his armpits. The birds were weighed and priced (Rs 60/kg) and we put them in the cartons at the back of the car for the short ride to Grandma's house in South Chandigarh. We slipped them swiftly to the backyard, me sheepishly, the kids unabashedly.
My mother has a small backyard with a tin shed which stores several items of old furniture, pots and pieces (picture left). We housed the birds in the shed and made them comfortable with water and feed. The chicken had a shy, head hung to the side look and my mother told me of an old Punjabi saying in which you compare a moping man with precisely such a chicken. The hens were pluckier and went about gently clucking. I thought of laws in U.S. cities which forbid cockrels within the city limits and prayed that Chandigarh did not have such laws and that in any case Mum's neighbours would be understanding over the weekend.
By the evening, the backyard smelt nicely of chicken poo and the thinnest hen had made a roost on a broken chair and laid an egg. Mercifully the chicken was still silent. As darkness fell we began to worry more about the neighbourhood cats than the decibel levels. We lit a candle inside, covered the shed entrance and leaned some stones against it. I also decided to sleep outside but ran in after midnight when all the mosquitoes in the area decided to make a meal of me. The chicken woke me up, and I guess a few others, at 530 am with a full throated cry. I ran out and saw a skinny cat trying to sneak in. It was shooed away and the chicken recovered his nerves soon. Of course the biggest tomcats in the neighbouhood were soon prowling the area. We survived the night with some reinforced defensive measures and my mother would have been very happy to see us off the following morning. We stopped midway for a tea at a friend at the National Dairy Research Insitute and gingerly lifted the boot to check on the hens. The neatly laid out cartons with 1-2 birds settled around pieces of cucumber were a total mess. The hens had made groups of their own and there was poop all over the place. I decided to press on regardless. We stopped at our home in Delhi and the kids brought down some cold water to feed the hens. Arun joined me on the last leg of the birds' journey to the farm. I sprayed the car with a deo before he stepped in and apologised for the awful smell. Thankfully he had a stuffy nose but my embarrassment was not over. He had asked a friend of his, a TV producer, to join us en route. Sandeep hopped in at Gurgaon and told us about his dream of starting a farm in Rajasthan. Arun wanted him to see our experiment and make up his mind.
The hens reached safely. We took Sandeep around the farm and explained to him our philosophy of integrated sustainable agriculture and our business model of tying a farm, financed by donestors, to a group of urban consumers. As we sorted the veggies, I told him that it may perhaps be better for him to begin with organic cereals and pulses, things that can be stored and transported without much of a fuss to the nearest city. Sales pitch for reversing the brain drain from agriculture over, my thoughts returned to Rati Ram and the somewhat silly story of the hens. Imagine what it takes for a guy with a car, mobile phone, internet and education to find and transport a decent breed of poultry. Now imagine a 'prosperous' farmer like Rati Ram who will probably have to take the bus to Chandigarh and argue with the driver to allow him to travel on top with the birds. He might as well go back to his three crops or even if he wants to add some poultry he might as well go to the nearest DOC (Day Old Chick) factory incubator and pump the chicks he buys with drugs laden feed. Unless he gets a Sandeep or an Arun into the picture.
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